Last week I had the pleasure of joining a walking tour looking at art deco architecture in central Helsinki. Organised by ArchInfo, the Architecture Information Centre Finland, the tour was led by Tommi Lindh, Head of the Alvar Aalto Foundation as well as a researcher in art deco architecture in Helsinki. We started the tour at the Re-Creation pavilion on the Esplanad, from where we did a tour through the Punavuori area before heading to the Railway Station and the city's epi-centre.
There was much to learn from the tour, and I hope I get most of this right. The art deco era in Helsinki took place approximately between 1925 and 1935. For a long time it wasn't even seen as its own architectural era, more just an in-between after the decline of classicism and before rise of functionalism, a sort of classicist hangover. With time, and research, that's however started to change and it's now recognised that art deco architecture had its own movement Helsinki (although some of the buildings we looked at during the tour are listed as Nordic classicism on Wikipedia). According to Lindh, the era can be further subdivided into art deco classicism and art deco functionalism, depending on the features of the building studied.
Art deco architecture is characterised by the use of expensive building materials, increasingly regularised base plans, and, significantly, creative details on the buildings. Whereas classical buildings feature details following classical themes, details on art deco buildings can be recognised by the freedom the architects have had to use their own ideas to design details. On the other hand, in contrast to functionalism, the details, ornaments, and decorations on art deco buildings don't necessarily serve a function beyond being pleasing to the eye.
The following photos should elucidate the matter:
Gunnar Taucher's 1929 building on Pieni Roobertinkatu 1-3 was our first stop; it's currently undergoing renovation. Note the horizontal lines going across the building.
The undersides of the balconies on Eino Formsan's 1935 building on Kasarminkatu 8 have been painted a beautiful blue.
The building on Kasarminkatu 8 is one of only two buildings constructed in the 1930s in Helsinki that feature round courtyards.
Väinö Vähäkallio's 1925 building on Tarkk'ampujankatu 3. Note the spire.
Jalmari Peltonen's 1935 building on Jääkärinkatu 1. It stands on stark contrast to the highly-decorated building at the opposite corner.
Runar Finnilä's 1931 building on Jääkärinkatu 13 has an impressive entrance.
This building at Viiskulma showcases ornamentation of the art deco era.
Another art deco building at Viiskulma.
The Methodist Church by the famed Lars Sonck from 1929. Apparently, however, Sonch isn't generally seen as an art deco architect.
A 1928 building by Cronstedt, Schultz, and Röneholm at Iso Roobertinkatu 32.
The 1938 building by Kaarlo Borg at Iso Roobertinkatu 28 comes ate the very end of the period, but has an impressive and expensive-looking facade. It's currently undergoing renovations.
An example of "gothic" art deco from 1927, by Karl V. Stoof on Iso Roobertinkatu 24.
Veikko Leistén and Gorg Jägerroos building at the corner of Iso Roobertinkatu and Annankatu was completed in 1938. Note the impressive entrance.
On the opposite corner is a 1937 building by Helge Lundström.
Gösta Juslén's 1934 building on Iso Roobertinkatu 12 today, quite fittingly, houses Bukowskis auction house.
Look at the signs on Ole Gripenberg's 1927 building at Iso Roobertinkatu 2, notice anything odd in the top row?
Hotel Torni on Yrjönkatu was designed by Valter & Bertel Jung in 1930. At the time, it was the tallest building in Helsinki.
The New Student Union Building by Armas Lindgren and Wivi Lönn was actually built in 1914, but features many art deco elements.
Similarly to the New Student Union, The Central Railway Station, by the famous Eliel Saarinen, hails from 1914 but is often mistaken for an art deco building.
The current World Trade Centre in Helsinki was originally built as the headquarters for Liittopankki (Union Bank) in 1929. It was designed by P. E. Blomstedt. Many of the original features, such as the air conditioning system, remain.
Hotel Helsinki on Kluuvikatu was also designed by P.E. Blomstedt and was at one point the city's finest hotel. It's today run by Sokos.
We ended our tour at Fazer's café on Kluuvikatu. Designed by Gösta Juslén and Jarl Eklund (1929-1931) it has a distinct New York feel to it.
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